Lancashire

Churches

A church formed from the chancel of a C14 priory

The Priory Church of St Thomas the Martyr, Up Holland has a long and chequered history. Its story begins with the foundation of a chapel by Sir Robert de Holland in 1307. This was serviced by two priests, but in 1310 he expanded it to become a Collegiate Chapel for thirteen Canons Regular. This proved unsuccessful, and by 1318 the church was found to be deserted. In 1319 de Holland took the advice of the Bishop of Lichfield and agreed to the building's foundation as a Priory of Benedictine monks. The energy of the Benedictines under Prior Thomas of Doncaster resulted in extensive development of the site. By 1323 the church was sufficiently prestigious for Edward II to stay there for two weeks. It has been suggested that a "T" shaped building was planned, with western transepts or perhaps west towers. Certainly the present nave - which was formerly the Priory's chancel - suggests a substantial structure was envisaged and constructed, though not finished. However, apart from this, only remains of the dormitory can still be seen. After the Reformation much of the Priory was used by the villagers for the repair and construction of their own properties.  

By 1530 the Priory had declined to two scholars and two "aged and impotent folk", and complaints were made to the Bishop about the extravagant lifestyle of the occupants. Consequently there was little local protest when Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of the smaller monasteries in 1536. The Priory chapel then became a chapel of ease for Wigan parish church. In 1643 Parliament was about to make the chapel a distinct church with a parish, but Royal Assent was not granted due to the turbulence of the times. So, though the church performed the duties and services of a parish church, it did not receive that status until as late as 1882.

The oldest part of the present building is the nave (formerly Priory chancel). The remarkably tall and slender piers have four shafts and four hollows, a type more usually associated with the Perpendicular style. However, the chamfered arches are typically Decorated style, and so the arcades as a whole must date from the C14, probably the first half of that century. Was there ever a clerestory above the arcades? The church guide suggests so, but there is no firm evidence to substantiate this assertion.

Outside, beside the north-west door, in the angle formed by the tower, are the east crossing piers. Did a tower ever rest on them? Probably not. The remainder of the nave walling is C14 but heavily reworked. The aisle windows are Decorated in style - showing reticulation, but are probably copies of the originals. Inside the church, the tower arch is a tall and elegant construction almost matching the scale of the arcades. On the south side of the nave is a double piscina: on the north wall is a square recess that was an aumbry.

The tower was added in the late C15. It is similar to many other North Country towers of the time, having a west door, three-light west window (here with reticulated tracery), two-light bell openings and diagonal buttresses (which are particularly large). The tower, it must be said, is too small for the rest of the church. The Benedictines, no doubt, had a much grander structure in mind.

The present chancel was added in 1882-86. It is noteworthy only for its pinnacles at all four corners and on the east gable.

St Thomas' has a good selection of stained glass. At the time of the Dissolution it is recorded that 780 feet of glass was sold at no more than 4d a foot. Consequently most of that remains is modern. However one south aisle window has been assembled from medieval fragments. It is called the Mary Window because the face of the Virgin can be seen amongst the pieces, and because its re-assembly was paid for by women and girls of the parish called Mary! Probably the best of the other windows is the large east window of the 1880s by Henry Holiday. It has well drawn figures of saints, angels and Christ, with signs of the evangelists above. All exhibit the portraiture and colours of the Pre-Raphaelites, and Holiday is known for frequently slipping into a Morris-like style. Other windows include one by the Edinburgh firm of Ballantine & Gardner, and interesting 1999 memorial glass showing a ship sailing towards very sinuous Northern Lights. It is by William Davies Studios of Wirral.

The church has a variety of interesting woodwork. The communion rail with twisted balusters is C17. In each aisle are pew ends carved with the occupants' initials and dates. The earliest date is 1635: the time when  Dr Bridgeman, the Rector of Wigan, re-seated the church. In the tower is a dole cupboard dated 1720 and carved with the names of churchwardens. The church had box pews, a three-decker pulpit, and north and west galleries, but these were cleared by Rev. Frederick D'Austini Cremer in 1883. In the churchyard is the grave of George Lyon, the highwayman, who was hanged at Lancaster with his two companions in 1815.

West tower (late C15)

The tower was added to the former chancel. It is smaller than was originally intended.

Nave looking west

The four bay arcade is exceptionally tall, and must have been a magnificent chancel.

East Window (detail)

The glass is from the 1880s and is by Henry Holiday.

Chancel (1882-86)

It is a conventional piece, but the sloping site allows the vestry to be beneath.

Pew end (1635)

Many dated pew ends remain. Most are from the re-seating by Dr Bridgeman in 1635.

Photographs and text © Tony Boughen